Wednesday, May 1, 2013

The pace of our days so far

Our days have taken on a pattern.
Like right now, about 6 PM, we relax, read, listen to music, write, talk to other pilgrims, nap, wash our clothes, plan for the next day.

We try to alternate long days with shorter ones. Tomorrow we'll walk 15 miles and the day after just 11.7 into Leon. We plan to take a whole day off in Leon.  

Now that the weather's turned warmer, we'll start earlier. We stop whenever it feels good, snacking on nuts, cheese, some cured meat, chocolate. We've tried to minimize the bread some.

We stop for photos, interesting phenomena like tractors stuck in the mud, achy feet or pee breaks. That's another subject!!

We encounter many other peregrinos but this part of the Camino is not populated- the Meseta. Towns cam be 10 miles apart and when they do appear, they're ghost like. The only business appears to be serving peregrinos. 

This changes as we walk through the different provinces. Once we left the Meseta in Leon, the activity in villages increased.  The landscapes are varied - wine growing , mountains and forests , small farms, livestock grazing. 

We are enjoying the small private hotels where we stay in with private rooms with baths, avoiding the traditional albuergue with the bunk beds and communal living arrangements. Best to leave those to the youth . We spend between 30-55 Euros per night for these accommodations and there appear to be many other peregrinos of like mind! 

Sometimes we make a reservation a day ahead and rest assured we'll have a place and not have to scramble at the last minute. This only happened to us once in Hornillos del Campo and even then, it worked out.  the albuergues gill up quicker and they don't take reservations so folks have to be prepared to walk on if they are full. 
 The Brierley guidebook is super helpful and we also gave a digital guidebook downloaded as well as numerous websites with info. Trip Advisor works predictably well. Oftentimes the hotel we are at will recommend and call ahead to the next town for us. We have a basic Spanish cell phone that we use to call ahead. 

They really appreciate my pathetic Spanish and I find myself in the role of helping others.  I'm surprised how few people speak Spanish.  

Sometimes the hostels serve meals; sometimes we head somewhere else.  There are always Menus de Peregrinos that provide a 3 course dinner for 10-12 Euros including all you can drink wine. 

There are so many ways of enjoying this experience.  Some people walk the whole way carrying their packs from St. Jean de Pied a Port to Santiago.  Some continue on to Finisterre.  Some people, especially Europeans, do it in stages, returning year after year.  Some choose to start from Sarria, the 100 kilometer marker. Starting here, one can still receive the official blessing and certificate in Santiago. We get our Camino passport at each place we spend a night.  Some people arrange their Camino in advance through a travel company and have their hotels reserved each night. There is a company called Jacotrans that will transport luggage from one stop to another.  

The point is that there is not just one way to walk; everyone does what fits at the time and adjusts along the way.  

Feel free to ask questions. What have I not explained well?

Also, please excuse any typos and such. I'm using my iPhone to write all this!!




1 comment:

  1. I'm loving your journal. Thanks for taking the time to record it.

    ReplyDelete