Training Program in preparation for our Camino de Santiago walk

Note:  Before our official training period started, we had been attending spinning and yoga classes once or twice a week each at LA Fitness as well as upper body training with a trainer.  Walks, bike rides, kayaking, yard work and other activities are part of our lifestyle. 

Last week in February:  we spent a week in the Las Vegas/Palm Springs area hiking daily.  We didn’t wear our packs at this time but we did have some hilly hikes. 

March 4:  7.5 mile walk without packs

March 8:  6 miles with packs (20 lbs)

March 14:  9.4 miles (no packs)

March 20:  13 miles (no packs) to town

March 22:  4 mile walk

March 24:  5 mile with pack

March 26:  8 miles with packs

March 29:  13 miles with packs

April 2:  10 1/2 miles with packs

April 7:  5 miles (no packs)

April 10:  5.3 miles (no packs)

April 11:  7 miles with packs

April 12:  3 miles with packs

April 13:  9 miles with packs

April 16:  15 mile bike ride

We continued to practice yoga and do enormous amounts of yard work during this period. 

June 4 Toledo to Madrid to Barajas. Hotel de Barajas

Took the high speed train from Toledo and 20 minutes later we're at the Estacion Atocha.  Onto the Metro to the end of the blue line and a short can ride to the hotel.

We had a great dinner and great conversation with the owner which brought out Bailey's Irish Cream and whipped cream. Gifts of a fan and baseball hats. Why? Because we're Americans? Anyway, we're savoring the flavors and ready to fly! 

Monday June 3 Toledo. Hotel del Cardenal

We did a walk 'n wander today along a river path , around the whole town via the walls, and then the maze of streets to see the Cathedral,  El Grecos, and the synagogue from the 12th century.  

Tomorrow, the train takes us back  to Madrid where we have a hotel by the airport.  

Our only bad decision was to have our clothes washed by the hotel service to the tune of 50 Euros , only to stuff them back in our packs.  Who knew? 

We returned just now 10:00  P M from dinner in the Arabic section of Toledo.  We did not want another piece of white bread, delicious Caldo de Gallego,, paella, tapas, meat, Iberian ham, flan, or cheese. Thinking that hummous,kebabs, felafal sounded like the foods of the gods, we went on a search. It didn't take us long and we were being served just those foods. Our talk with our server came around to nationality . He is Syrian.  And so once again we had a Camino experience as he shared his heart. His family fled to Lebanon. His ex wife and 5 year old son live here. He is so thankful for his son's life as so many children have died in Syria.  He shakes his head and talks about the insanity of the so called leaders.  We think of Damla in Turkey and Ayman in Gaza. Craig talks about how close we are here to that world. 

This city, Toledo is a conflagration (is that a word?) of cultures: Arabic, Jewish, and Catholic.  Well, until 1492 that is. The Inquisition. 

And this unemployment of youth, lowering of social benefits, higher taxes in Europe, demonstrations in Madrid daily. The situation is ripe... 

Anyway, Craig suggested that we give him 50 Euros for his family.  At first he wouldn't accept but then did and cried openly. (That makes 4 men so far crying)

We shared a moment. Person to person beyond politics, religion , culture, language.  This makes sense- individuals. 

And shit- we just spent 50 Euros on our laundry.  

We promised to return for lunch tomorrow.  Best hummous ever. 

June 2 Madrid to Toledo

Sitting in the Madrid train station waiting for the train to Toledo.  We've splurged on a hotel there for 2 nights and I have a good sense that it's the same hotel we stayed in about 25 years ago though it's been purchased by Best Western in the interim.  The Trip Advisor reviews are excellent.  

We're definitely travel weary. Always the last days bring that feeling. The horse wants to head to the barn. 

After the Camino and being in the country for so long, we have no interest in big cities like Madrid, regardless of all the treasures and delights it holds.  

Toledo, OPorto are just enough.  

Conversations with taxi drivers are always enlightening. This morning, we talked about the protests in Turkey and how every day there is a protest (no violence ) in Madrid. Economic hardships are the word of the day.  Here, in Portugal, Ireland, Italy, even France now. Taxi driver said only Germany thrives financially. And then he said, "again". Everyone indicates that they are disgusted with the politics and blame the EU leaders .  Yesterday 's taxi driver in Portugal said the same. He worries for his children.  He is a firefighter but has to work a second job to provide.  Taxes are very high he says. 

Back to today. When taxi man asked where we were from and I said, "Seattle," he knew it from Grey's Anatomy!! We chatted about the stereotypes that people have and the importance of getting to know real people. He said most Americans think Spain is all about bullfights and flamenco dancers! 

I feel like burning these clothes but it will have to suffice to wash them in Toledo!! 

We're settled at the Hotel del Cardenal and we're sure it's the same hotel. We told manager that we were here 25 years ago and it seems he was here too!! He joked about how he remembered us. He rode the Camino de Santiago on bicycle some years back so we've got lots in common! 

He would like to go again but now is in the family stage of life, raising 2 girls so all he does is work, go home and be with his family.  He said he'd like to take his family on the Camino some time.  I've had those thoughts too- a multi generational trip.  

Photo below : a Madrid train station. 

June 1 Porto to Madrid

In Madrid now after a meal of gambas with their little heads on and chicken wings. Guess which one of us had the shrimp??

2 beers and 2 wines later we're in our Ibis hotel with the best beds in the world.  It was a long bus ride but there were only three of us on the bus.  Tomorrow we're off to Toledo until Tuesday, Hoping to stay in the castle we stayed in 25 years ago. 

May 31 Oporto 8 miles wandering

Have some glimpses of OPorto! This is the loveliest of cities, one of Unesco's World Heritage sites.  They have a high tech metro system; one of the best I've experienced .  

We're staying out of the centro in the university area at an Ibis hotel, a basic European hotel chain.  The beds are worth writing home about and we made good use of them, sleeping about 10 hours.  Our feet feel good and we enjoyed an 8 mile walk along the Atlantic to the Douro River and the downtown lively riverfront.  

This is a good transition allowing us to re-enter the modern world with all the choices and distractions and distress that are part of it.  We have English TV for the first time.  

Whereas Spain dubs in the shows, Portugal uses sun-titles so right now CC is watching Family Guy ! 

Oh yes, the  Port is terrific!  So are the people. And (drum roll ) the weather is summery ! People are at the beach soaking up the rays. It's been a really long, rough winter in Europe so this weather is very welcome. 

Off to Madrid tomorrow . 

May 30 Santiago to OPorto

The Camino is officially over. We boarded the bus this morning to go to OPorto along with a full bus load of Peregrinos!! And we thought we were so unique deciding to head south for a few days. 

Our friends, Diane and Rheinhart whom we met in Santiago before we left for Finesterre had the same plans. We're staying in the same hotel, an Ibis, in the university area of town, a 10 minute ride on the Metro to downtown. 

We just  returned from a long dinner with them complete with Port wine at the end. This is OPorto after all. 

They live in the Yukon near White Horse, the very place 42 odd years ago that Soaring Eagle and I were going homestead at.  But that's another story. Diane is from Portland and Rheinhart from Germany. They live entirely off the grid.  

I brought up a sensitive topic as we were talking and sharing life stories. I talked about wanting to go sometime to Berlin and experience modern Germany, having been raised in a Jewish family and brought up in the shadow of the holocaust.  Rheinhart immediately became emotional and teary and talked about the unshakable collective guilt of the nation and how his generation has not been able to show or feel any pride or nationalism at all in being German. 

We got beyond this. At first I thought I shouldn't have said anything but now I think it is good and that the only way to move beyond is to meet face to face as humans in a different point in time. 

War trauma lasts generations. 

This is a beautiful city but it is still a shock to leave the Camino and face the choices, the noise, the busy-ness. 

Hotel rooms and eating out- done!

Ready to come home .  But the weather's sunny and tomorrow will bring beautiful river and ocean walks .