May 31 Oporto 8 miles wandering

Have some glimpses of OPorto! This is the loveliest of cities, one of Unesco's World Heritage sites.  They have a high tech metro system; one of the best I've experienced .  

We're staying out of the centro in the university area at an Ibis hotel, a basic European hotel chain.  The beds are worth writing home about and we made good use of them, sleeping about 10 hours.  Our feet feel good and we enjoyed an 8 mile walk along the Atlantic to the Douro River and the downtown lively riverfront.  

This is a good transition allowing us to re-enter the modern world with all the choices and distractions and distress that are part of it.  We have English TV for the first time.  

Whereas Spain dubs in the shows, Portugal uses sun-titles so right now CC is watching Family Guy ! 

Oh yes, the  Port is terrific!  So are the people. And (drum roll ) the weather is summery ! People are at the beach soaking up the rays. It's been a really long, rough winter in Europe so this weather is very welcome. 

Off to Madrid tomorrow . 

May 30 Santiago to OPorto

The Camino is officially over. We boarded the bus this morning to go to OPorto along with a full bus load of Peregrinos!! And we thought we were so unique deciding to head south for a few days. 

Our friends, Diane and Rheinhart whom we met in Santiago before we left for Finesterre had the same plans. We're staying in the same hotel, an Ibis, in the university area of town, a 10 minute ride on the Metro to downtown. 

We just  returned from a long dinner with them complete with Port wine at the end. This is OPorto after all. 

They live in the Yukon near White Horse, the very place 42 odd years ago that Soaring Eagle and I were going homestead at.  But that's another story. Diane is from Portland and Rheinhart from Germany. They live entirely off the grid.  

I brought up a sensitive topic as we were talking and sharing life stories. I talked about wanting to go sometime to Berlin and experience modern Germany, having been raised in a Jewish family and brought up in the shadow of the holocaust.  Rheinhart immediately became emotional and teary and talked about the unshakable collective guilt of the nation and how his generation has not been able to show or feel any pride or nationalism at all in being German. 

We got beyond this. At first I thought I shouldn't have said anything but now I think it is good and that the only way to move beyond is to meet face to face as humans in a different point in time. 

War trauma lasts generations. 

This is a beautiful city but it is still a shock to leave the Camino and face the choices, the noise, the busy-ness. 

Hotel rooms and eating out- done!

Ready to come home .  But the weather's sunny and tomorrow will bring beautiful river and ocean walks .

May 29 Finesterre to Santiago by bus

We're back home in Santiago at Hotel Adair, same room.  Stay tuned for what's next! 

May 28 Finesterre to the lighthouse. 8.4 miles 19, 716 steps

Oh such a day!  Buffet breakfast at our hotel followed by a pack less walk through town to then lighthouse.  What a difference no pack is!  My toes were dancing around and CC could hardly keep up with me!  The pics will speak for the views as well as for the lunch we had on the way back. 

 The rest of this day is being spent napping, writing, talking, planning.

Right now I'm sitting in the lounge area having a glass of wine and so e type of seafood enchilada type tapa that the server just brought to me.  That's the tradition here.  The tapas arrive without charge during the early evening hours.

Our bodies know that they can rest now and they are responding well.  

Today we met the couple from Ireland who we first met in Negreira.  The Yukon couple arrived yesterday.  We'd met them in Santiago.

Otherwise it's just the two of us.  This last part has been for us.  Every so often, we have private renewals of our vows.  O e took place a few years ago in the Virgin Islands.  Some of you know that.  We had another private moment in the church in Santiago during the Pilgrim Mass.  No big hoopla; just a simple, "let's make this a renew our vows moment."  

What has happened on this trip is that the edges have smoothed and because so many of the daily pressures and worries and hurries have receded, we can take the time to notice the negative habits that can sometimes overwhelm a long term relationship.  We are fortunate, so fortunate that we can talk with each other, thus bringing in more laughter and ease.  

Craig's off walking on the beach now undoubtedly coming back with more treasures to add.  

A very light dinner later tonight will end this perfect day.  

This was part of breakfast . 

May 27 Finisterre

Rainy day at the ocean.  Off to see the lighthouse at the end of the world. 

But first :

Reflection Q and A

Several friends have asked us questions about this experience.  They have provided us with a good opportunity to codify our time.  Travel always leaves impressions that we will share, keeping in mind however, that we can't know the nuances of other lives and that we make every effort not to generalize.

Now for the take home quiz? 

What have you enjoyed the most?   

There is no one thing. The walking, the companionship with Craig, the solitary time, meeting other peregrinos, meeting local people, the scenery, the culture, the history, the spirit, even the weather, the sense of humble empowerment. Don't want to separate it. 

Did you take the "right"  things?  

Yes! Absolutely. Once we sent the 3 kilos onto Santiago, our packs were manageable.  The revised packing list has it all.  I would change my color combo and have a black raincoat and black and maroon or camel combo outfits. I didn't like the blue:)

What do you miss most?   

The Grands. Our Peeps.  I loved being able to stay in touch via text, email, Facebook, and Skype. 

Are the people you meet  mostly friendly?  

Totally friendly. Can't think of a negative incident at all.  No animosity towards Americans.  In fact, when locals found out we weren't German or Scandinavian or from GB, they were delighted!! 

What are some of the reasons that people seem to take this walk that you have heard?  

To have time away from the rigors of life. To reflect. To walk in the footsteps. To take time to make changes in life like work or retirement. Because walking is a way of life. Many people return year after year or choose a different Camino to walk. 

What seems to be the most difficult part?

For me, carrying the backpack though I got used to it and even forgot to take it off when I could have. Jade and I bonded well. For Craig, the bus ride back from Finesterre was hell- no air, windy roads....

What are the public transpotation systems like?

Excellent.  The trains are clean, fast, and on schedule. Same with busses except for the air quality on the Finesterre to Santiago one. OPorto has an excellent Metro. We roamed the city on one ticket. Everyone uses them; a car would be expensive and a big hassle. Check out this photo of the Madrid train station where we rode a train for 20 minutes to get to Toledo. 

Piqued my interest . . . You are ready to resume life with reservations? 

Yes, very ready.  The last video Sonya sent of Hazel and the photos of Connor and Natalie that Nicole sent tugged at heart. The   reservations come because I don't want to lose the peace and groundedness that the Camino offers.  I like walking and walking.  I have vowed not to engage in the multi-tasking nonsense.  I'm looking forward to reading a book. Neither of us have done that. We spent our downtime writing, talking with others, tending to our bodily needs like eating and sleeping, planning the next day's route, reading and learning about the region we were in. 

Do you find people you have met in villages (those that live there, not traveling thru) are not angry like
we are in America? Even tho they may not have 'as much' do they really 'have more'?

I don't know this answer. We were in a very rural, traditional agrarian part of Spain.  With my limited language skills I don't feel informed.  People were very friendly. People also told us over and over that "there is no trabajo".  Are we so angry? 

Could you live in Europe for even half a year? 

I have and I could. I'd need a purpose. I wouldn't leave my family; they'd have to come with. 

So, what was the social scene like? It seemed like you talked/walked with lots of people. Was there a kind of expectation of being sociable and talkative? 
Yes, we did talk with many people.  We didn't, however,  spend too much time walking with other people.  We had our pace (slow and slower) and there is no sense of obligation to walk together even if you've become fast friends.  Our conversations happened more over meals, in the towns during rest times.  Everyone respects the need for alone time.  Some folks choose to do a silent Camino; others walk with friends, chatting.  I would say that there is no expectation at all to be sociable and talkative.  That's the terrific part.   

What about music?
I expect there is impromptu music making in the albuergues.  Since we walked mostly through the countryside, we didn't see or hear about music events.  We did have an opportunity to hear Gregorian chants in a church in O'Ceibreiro.  I expect if we'd stayed longer in Burgos or Leon, we would have had an opportunity to find music venues.   I did think it would have been fun to sing along the path but if I had done that, it definitely would have disturbed the peace!

Do you want to come home or keep on moving?

Oh yes. Home home home . Living out of a backpack , eating out , traveling and staying in different hotels: done!!

But I'd love to do another Camino. 

What's it all about? 

Love? Adventure? Luck? Still don't have the answer. 

May 27 Concurbion to Finisterre6.25 miles, 14,688 steps

We have arrived!!  Our hotel is lovely. Our backpacks are in the closet along with our boots and we feel finished!  

How strange and lovely it is to walk along the beach unencumbered!!  

Back at the hotel after accepting another Compostela for this walk, we're napping and honoring our bodies for their hard work: 375 miles !! 

And lest I forget, I must appreciate Craig for being my surplus water bearer. Every day, I fill my bladder pack to capacity and promptly run out.  CC hardly drinks his and generously stops to give me sips as we walk along.  He is powered by Coke Zero!  

Dinner at the hotel at 8:30. I'm hoping for  soup and a salad!  

Tomorrow brings a trip to the light house, some beach exploring and more Celebrations of Rest. 

Taking off la mochilla. 

Note the windmills in the background Of the second photo below.  This is a typical Galician grain storage structure. 

And do note the snail on the Camino sign. We couldn't let that go!

The Finesterre Camino has a different feel from the Camino de Santiago. It's much less traveled so there's not that sense of cameraderie so prevalent on the Santiago walk. There are long stretches without towns or rest stops. It doesn't have that aura of reverence or spirituality if you will. Yet it is exquisite and speaks silently and the notion of walking to the sea brings a sense of completion, especially since we weren't on a traditional Catholic pilgrimage that would bring enhanced significance to the arrival in Santiago to attend the mass.  

Anyway, we're feeling joyful and glad of it. 

This sopa de verduras is so delicious. A cream vegetable soup ( no dairy ) with onions, carrots, beans, Brussels sprouts, pumpkin.  The other typical Gallician soup, caldo de Gallega is equally fantastic.  It uses a special green. Photo follows.  Desserts speak for themselves.  

May 26. A Picota to Corcubion 15.36 miles,37,048 steps

Oh what a day it is!! Right now we're sitting in the lounge of our hotel that faces the sea.  We have reached the Atlantic Ocean and it's even in the right place for us Westerners, even if it's the wrong ocean.  We're having beer and Galician wine and the tapas keep coming! First chorizo and now some roasted small peppers.  Dinner will be soon. Spanish people eat late so by 9:00 we'll be on the early side. 

We have a gorgeous hotel with a patio that opens onto the bay. Tomorrow will be an easy day to Finesterre. 

Of course, that's what we said about today and it was a giant cojone challenge  if you catch my drift. 

 

We climbed alot and then made a major descent of about 600 meters over cobble stones and loose rocks to this lovely seaside town. 

We're approaching the end of the world as it was thought of before the Americas were invaded by Columbus and his cronies. 

Dinner, starting at 9 was delicious. I had some shells that are the ones that symbolize the Camino, and Craig had yet more delicious pork. Dessert speaks for itself. 

Galicia is easy to fall in love with.   For now, enjoy the photos, even if they came in a strange order. 

This update of Blogger is supposed to allow photos to be placed but it seems rather random. 

May 25. Negeira to A Picota 11 miles 15,710 steps

Knee problem solved- just don't squat with pack still on!!!! 

Walk through Galicia- my oh my! 

Galician language very close to Portuguese

New town: Picola- called and he picked us up.  Off the Camino. 75 yrs old. He's 30: second generation 

Just notes- no wifi . More to come as we arrive at the end of the world- fin del mundo:)

May 24 Santiago to Negreira 15.5 miles, 36,343 steps

Back  on the road again.  These boots are still made for walking though my knee wasn't too thrilled. I just get my feet all cushy and happy and now my knee. Oh well. Nothing a little Ibuprofen cream won't cure.  

We had a gorgeous breakfast this morning at the upscale version of the hotel we'd been staying at because they didn't have a room for us there for the last night.  Same price, about half of what this one cost.  The owners of both are exceptional proprietors and the experience of staying here is so so nice.  It's made lazy pilgrims out of us!! It's worth it to cone to Santiago just to stay with them!!

We'll return here next Wednesday for one night by bus from Finisterre before we leave for Madrid.  

So this was a good choice. Today's walk was picturesque, sunny, slight breeze, well marked Camino with fewer peregrinos, 4 mile straight uphill notwithstanding!!   Talked with a woman from Zimbabwe who now lives in London because it's too violent and dangerous. 

Craig had a joyful time after he caffeined up and listened to "Craig's happy tunes" playlist to ease the climb. Drats! My phone was out of battery or I would have had a great video of the peregrino contento dancing down the lane backpack and all!

Speaking of Craig, I'm still puzzled as to why he is AlWAYS ready with backpack on before me.  

And I never knew he could whistle so well - after all these years. 

So we have a lighthearted feeling. Perhaps because our sins were absolved at the Santiago mass?  Perhaps it's the abundant sunshine? We have a lovely ease between us. Those edges that sometimes come with long time relationships have softened. We're making decisions easily.  Bringing it on home!!!

Questions? Feel free to ask.  

May 23 Santiago

A day of wandering.  Gardens, market, tour of the cathedral, bumping into Camino friends, making plans.

A change of heart has turned us towards the ocean. Tomorrow we leave for the Camino de Finesterre - - a 4-5 day walk from Santiago to the Fin del Mundo.  More about that as we walk.  

So we're canceling the plans to go back to Pamplona and walking from here!!

So great to take time to make the right decision!

May 22 Santiago

YSiesta time now. Bought a new pair of 

non-hiking sandals! Love them! Attended Pilgrim's mass that was especially 

moving. Catholics have fine rituals! 

Still experiencing and feeling. Words later.

Ok it's later as we sit outside sipping and eating olives . It's 7:30 but dinner is not a possibility until at least 8PM here. 

The morning was delicious in many ways. We slept in after taking a dose of Ibuprofen to ease the body.   Breakfast was exceptional with cheese and bread and tomato preserves along with a special treat: a croissant to dip in my cafe con leche!! Off to the old town shopping district for a new pair of shoes for me and then to the cathedral for the big pilgrim's mass. Probably 4,000 people in attendance. Oh how fortunate we were! Today they swung the huge botafumeiro and it filled the cathedral with song and incense. The Catholics do ritual well and regardless of belief the universal messages of faith and love were honored by all.  We recorded the whole service. 

An uncanny experience.  Remember the grieving couple from the Cruz de Ferro? We found ourselves sitting in the pew right next to them. Again, a silent exchange.  I found tears coming during the service. I just allowed them. 

We found the post office , retrieved our package and shipped it onto our hotel in Madrid so now we are free for the next part of this trip: Camino Lite from Pamplona to Burgos. 

A funny exchange happened at the post office. As I was mailing the box and chatting with the woman helping me about what a lovely city Santiago is and other niceties , she said, "yes but it rains too much. " We commiserated. 

Guess what??? Right now on TV with dubbed in Spanish, we're watching "The Way."

Had a lovely salad while chatting with a couple from the Yukon Territory . Ha ha. Once upon a time Soaring Eagle and I were headed there to homestead. But that's an entirely different adventure. 

Back to our hotel for a nap and a shower. Today I was able to stand for a long long time with no pain.  Perhaps because our sins have been absolved ? I'm lighter?

Ok. Caught up now.  Off to wander this lovely city. 

Standing in shower on own 2 feet-

Unburdened. 

Flossing

May 21 O'Pedrouza to Santiago de Compostela 13.45 miles , 31,579 steps

We arrived in Santiago at 1:30 today.  Soaking it up for awhile and then I'll share some words.  

Ahhhh.

I always remember Ernest Hemingway's quote about travel writing and how one should write about people, places, sights, sounds, and....how the weather was.  It's fine. Perfect walking weather.  Does it matter? It's like childbirth.  Once it's nice, one forgets the hardship.  

We walk along roads lined with eucalyptus and chestnut trees.  The groundcover is reminiscent of home- ferns, columbine, nettles, calla lilies , Rhodies, buttercup. 

We've been away almost a month now. My roots are showing!!! 

As we approach Santiago and the end of this part of the journey I find myself starting to bargain with myself to preserve these ways of being, the ease, the purpose, the rhythm to the days, the grace of other peregrinos, the comfort of Craig and me together, the rewards of hard work and the deep rest that comes from that, the TIME I allow myself to exist in a wrinkle free state.  

I've made these bargains before-in fact, every summer as the school year started up again!  So I know how difficult it is to re-enter, embrace all that there is.  Retreats are something wonderful.   And this one especially.  Walk, eat, sleep.  In the footsteps. Something about that.  

We expected big crowds on this day but surprisingly there weren't any.   There was time for reflection.  And suddenly I became oh so tired.  Was it because my body-mind knew a rest was coming?

We walked with a young man from Portland all morning today and had the most engaging conversation with him about..are you ready ? Technology!  The topic revolved around creating an interface for mobile devices that would accommodate the needs and skills of older people. He is a software developer and one could just hear the wheels turning as we entertained ideas for development as well as marketing and R&D.  We exchanged contact information.  For the fun of it.

Camino social groups. That's a whole story unto itself.  There are those who walk from St.Jean to Finisterre, staying in Albuergues all the way, carrying their own mochillas, one man we met completing it in 27 days.  Then there are people who just walk the last 100 kilometers from Sarria to earn their Compostela and have their luggage transported. That there truly is no judgment as to what is best is the grace of this walk.  . Everyone honors the Camino and shares their journey, encouraging others on. 

Today was the first day that we did not hear the cuckoo BUT our friends Jenny and Craig from Australia heard it so all is still good. 

Ok now for something a bit historical but perhaps off color for some . Lavacolla is the area right before Santiago that is now the airport.  In former times, it was the area where pilgrims purified themselves before walking in.  It translates as "

wash  penis. "

We have an uncommonly wonderful hotel here for three days with beautiful gardens and gracious hosts.  As we made our way to the tourist office to receive our certificate, we happened upon Jenny and Craig. This is so much fun when you become fast friends, then part and then have another surprise encounter. We had dinner together at Dieciseis.