Training Program in preparation for our Camino de Santiago walk

Note:  Before our official training period started, we had been attending spinning and yoga classes once or twice a week each at LA Fitness as well as upper body training with a trainer.  Walks, bike rides, kayaking, yard work and other activities are part of our lifestyle. 

Last week in February:  we spent a week in the Las Vegas/Palm Springs area hiking daily.  We didn’t wear our packs at this time but we did have some hilly hikes. 

March 4:  7.5 mile walk without packs

March 8:  6 miles with packs (20 lbs)

March 14:  9.4 miles (no packs)

March 20:  13 miles (no packs) to town

March 22:  4 mile walk

March 24:  5 mile with pack

March 26:  8 miles with packs

March 29:  13 miles with packs

April 2:  10 1/2 miles with packs

April 7:  5 miles (no packs)

April 10:  5.3 miles (no packs)

April 11:  7 miles with packs

April 12:  3 miles with packs

April 13:  9 miles with packs

April 16:  15 mile bike ride

We continued to practice yoga and do enormous amounts of yard work during this period. 

June 4 Toledo to Madrid to Barajas. Hotel de Barajas

Took the high speed train from Toledo and 20 minutes later we're at the Estacion Atocha.  Onto the Metro to the end of the blue line and a short can ride to the hotel.

We had a great dinner and great conversation with the owner which brought out Bailey's Irish Cream and whipped cream. Gifts of a fan and baseball hats. Why? Because we're Americans? Anyway, we're savoring the flavors and ready to fly! 

Monday June 3 Toledo. Hotel del Cardenal

We did a walk 'n wander today along a river path , around the whole town via the walls, and then the maze of streets to see the Cathedral,  El Grecos, and the synagogue from the 12th century.  

Tomorrow, the train takes us back  to Madrid where we have a hotel by the airport.  

Our only bad decision was to have our clothes washed by the hotel service to the tune of 50 Euros , only to stuff them back in our packs.  Who knew? 

We returned just now 10:00  P M from dinner in the Arabic section of Toledo.  We did not want another piece of white bread, delicious Caldo de Gallego,, paella, tapas, meat, Iberian ham, flan, or cheese. Thinking that hummous,kebabs, felafal sounded like the foods of the gods, we went on a search. It didn't take us long and we were being served just those foods. Our talk with our server came around to nationality . He is Syrian.  And so once again we had a Camino experience as he shared his heart. His family fled to Lebanon. His ex wife and 5 year old son live here. He is so thankful for his son's life as so many children have died in Syria.  He shakes his head and talks about the insanity of the so called leaders.  We think of Damla in Turkey and Ayman in Gaza. Craig talks about how close we are here to that world. 

This city, Toledo is a conflagration (is that a word?) of cultures: Arabic, Jewish, and Catholic.  Well, until 1492 that is. The Inquisition. 

And this unemployment of youth, lowering of social benefits, higher taxes in Europe, demonstrations in Madrid daily. The situation is ripe... 

Anyway, Craig suggested that we give him 50 Euros for his family.  At first he wouldn't accept but then did and cried openly. (That makes 4 men so far crying)

We shared a moment. Person to person beyond politics, religion , culture, language.  This makes sense- individuals. 

And shit- we just spent 50 Euros on our laundry.  

We promised to return for lunch tomorrow.  Best hummous ever. 

June 2 Madrid to Toledo

Sitting in the Madrid train station waiting for the train to Toledo.  We've splurged on a hotel there for 2 nights and I have a good sense that it's the same hotel we stayed in about 25 years ago though it's been purchased by Best Western in the interim.  The Trip Advisor reviews are excellent.  

We're definitely travel weary. Always the last days bring that feeling. The horse wants to head to the barn. 

After the Camino and being in the country for so long, we have no interest in big cities like Madrid, regardless of all the treasures and delights it holds.  

Toledo, OPorto are just enough.  

Conversations with taxi drivers are always enlightening. This morning, we talked about the protests in Turkey and how every day there is a protest (no violence ) in Madrid. Economic hardships are the word of the day.  Here, in Portugal, Ireland, Italy, even France now. Taxi driver said only Germany thrives financially. And then he said, "again". Everyone indicates that they are disgusted with the politics and blame the EU leaders .  Yesterday 's taxi driver in Portugal said the same. He worries for his children.  He is a firefighter but has to work a second job to provide.  Taxes are very high he says. 

Back to today. When taxi man asked where we were from and I said, "Seattle," he knew it from Grey's Anatomy!! We chatted about the stereotypes that people have and the importance of getting to know real people. He said most Americans think Spain is all about bullfights and flamenco dancers! 

I feel like burning these clothes but it will have to suffice to wash them in Toledo!! 

We're settled at the Hotel del Cardenal and we're sure it's the same hotel. We told manager that we were here 25 years ago and it seems he was here too!! He joked about how he remembered us. He rode the Camino de Santiago on bicycle some years back so we've got lots in common! 

He would like to go again but now is in the family stage of life, raising 2 girls so all he does is work, go home and be with his family.  He said he'd like to take his family on the Camino some time.  I've had those thoughts too- a multi generational trip.  

Photo below : a Madrid train station. 

June 1 Porto to Madrid

In Madrid now after a meal of gambas with their little heads on and chicken wings. Guess which one of us had the shrimp??

2 beers and 2 wines later we're in our Ibis hotel with the best beds in the world.  It was a long bus ride but there were only three of us on the bus.  Tomorrow we're off to Toledo until Tuesday, Hoping to stay in the castle we stayed in 25 years ago. 

May 31 Oporto 8 miles wandering

Have some glimpses of OPorto! This is the loveliest of cities, one of Unesco's World Heritage sites.  They have a high tech metro system; one of the best I've experienced .  

We're staying out of the centro in the university area at an Ibis hotel, a basic European hotel chain.  The beds are worth writing home about and we made good use of them, sleeping about 10 hours.  Our feet feel good and we enjoyed an 8 mile walk along the Atlantic to the Douro River and the downtown lively riverfront.  

This is a good transition allowing us to re-enter the modern world with all the choices and distractions and distress that are part of it.  We have English TV for the first time.  

Whereas Spain dubs in the shows, Portugal uses sun-titles so right now CC is watching Family Guy ! 

Oh yes, the  Port is terrific!  So are the people. And (drum roll ) the weather is summery ! People are at the beach soaking up the rays. It's been a really long, rough winter in Europe so this weather is very welcome. 

Off to Madrid tomorrow . 

May 30 Santiago to OPorto

The Camino is officially over. We boarded the bus this morning to go to OPorto along with a full bus load of Peregrinos!! And we thought we were so unique deciding to head south for a few days. 

Our friends, Diane and Rheinhart whom we met in Santiago before we left for Finesterre had the same plans. We're staying in the same hotel, an Ibis, in the university area of town, a 10 minute ride on the Metro to downtown. 

We just  returned from a long dinner with them complete with Port wine at the end. This is OPorto after all. 

They live in the Yukon near White Horse, the very place 42 odd years ago that Soaring Eagle and I were going homestead at.  But that's another story. Diane is from Portland and Rheinhart from Germany. They live entirely off the grid.  

I brought up a sensitive topic as we were talking and sharing life stories. I talked about wanting to go sometime to Berlin and experience modern Germany, having been raised in a Jewish family and brought up in the shadow of the holocaust.  Rheinhart immediately became emotional and teary and talked about the unshakable collective guilt of the nation and how his generation has not been able to show or feel any pride or nationalism at all in being German. 

We got beyond this. At first I thought I shouldn't have said anything but now I think it is good and that the only way to move beyond is to meet face to face as humans in a different point in time. 

War trauma lasts generations. 

This is a beautiful city but it is still a shock to leave the Camino and face the choices, the noise, the busy-ness. 

Hotel rooms and eating out- done!

Ready to come home .  But the weather's sunny and tomorrow will bring beautiful river and ocean walks .

May 29 Finesterre to Santiago by bus

We're back home in Santiago at Hotel Adair, same room.  Stay tuned for what's next! 

May 28 Finesterre to the lighthouse. 8.4 miles 19, 716 steps

Oh such a day!  Buffet breakfast at our hotel followed by a pack less walk through town to then lighthouse.  What a difference no pack is!  My toes were dancing around and CC could hardly keep up with me!  The pics will speak for the views as well as for the lunch we had on the way back. 

 The rest of this day is being spent napping, writing, talking, planning.

Right now I'm sitting in the lounge area having a glass of wine and so e type of seafood enchilada type tapa that the server just brought to me.  That's the tradition here.  The tapas arrive without charge during the early evening hours.

Our bodies know that they can rest now and they are responding well.  

Today we met the couple from Ireland who we first met in Negreira.  The Yukon couple arrived yesterday.  We'd met them in Santiago.

Otherwise it's just the two of us.  This last part has been for us.  Every so often, we have private renewals of our vows.  O e took place a few years ago in the Virgin Islands.  Some of you know that.  We had another private moment in the church in Santiago during the Pilgrim Mass.  No big hoopla; just a simple, "let's make this a renew our vows moment."  

What has happened on this trip is that the edges have smoothed and because so many of the daily pressures and worries and hurries have receded, we can take the time to notice the negative habits that can sometimes overwhelm a long term relationship.  We are fortunate, so fortunate that we can talk with each other, thus bringing in more laughter and ease.  

Craig's off walking on the beach now undoubtedly coming back with more treasures to add.  

A very light dinner later tonight will end this perfect day.  

This was part of breakfast . 

May 27 Finisterre

Rainy day at the ocean.  Off to see the lighthouse at the end of the world. 

But first :

Reflection Q and A

Several friends have asked us questions about this experience.  They have provided us with a good opportunity to codify our time.  Travel always leaves impressions that we will share, keeping in mind however, that we can't know the nuances of other lives and that we make every effort not to generalize.

Now for the take home quiz? 

What have you enjoyed the most?   

There is no one thing. The walking, the companionship with Craig, the solitary time, meeting other peregrinos, meeting local people, the scenery, the culture, the history, the spirit, even the weather, the sense of humble empowerment. Don't want to separate it. 

Did you take the "right"  things?  

Yes! Absolutely. Once we sent the 3 kilos onto Santiago, our packs were manageable.  The revised packing list has it all.  I would change my color combo and have a black raincoat and black and maroon or camel combo outfits. I didn't like the blue:)

What do you miss most?   

The Grands. Our Peeps.  I loved being able to stay in touch via text, email, Facebook, and Skype. 

Are the people you meet  mostly friendly?  

Totally friendly. Can't think of a negative incident at all.  No animosity towards Americans.  In fact, when locals found out we weren't German or Scandinavian or from GB, they were delighted!! 

What are some of the reasons that people seem to take this walk that you have heard?  

To have time away from the rigors of life. To reflect. To walk in the footsteps. To take time to make changes in life like work or retirement. Because walking is a way of life. Many people return year after year or choose a different Camino to walk. 

What seems to be the most difficult part?

For me, carrying the backpack though I got used to it and even forgot to take it off when I could have. Jade and I bonded well. For Craig, the bus ride back from Finesterre was hell- no air, windy roads....

What are the public transpotation systems like?

Excellent.  The trains are clean, fast, and on schedule. Same with busses except for the air quality on the Finesterre to Santiago one. OPorto has an excellent Metro. We roamed the city on one ticket. Everyone uses them; a car would be expensive and a big hassle. Check out this photo of the Madrid train station where we rode a train for 20 minutes to get to Toledo. 

Piqued my interest . . . You are ready to resume life with reservations? 

Yes, very ready.  The last video Sonya sent of Hazel and the photos of Connor and Natalie that Nicole sent tugged at heart. The   reservations come because I don't want to lose the peace and groundedness that the Camino offers.  I like walking and walking.  I have vowed not to engage in the multi-tasking nonsense.  I'm looking forward to reading a book. Neither of us have done that. We spent our downtime writing, talking with others, tending to our bodily needs like eating and sleeping, planning the next day's route, reading and learning about the region we were in. 

Do you find people you have met in villages (those that live there, not traveling thru) are not angry like
we are in America? Even tho they may not have 'as much' do they really 'have more'?

I don't know this answer. We were in a very rural, traditional agrarian part of Spain.  With my limited language skills I don't feel informed.  People were very friendly. People also told us over and over that "there is no trabajo".  Are we so angry? 

Could you live in Europe for even half a year? 

I have and I could. I'd need a purpose. I wouldn't leave my family; they'd have to come with. 

So, what was the social scene like? It seemed like you talked/walked with lots of people. Was there a kind of expectation of being sociable and talkative? 
Yes, we did talk with many people.  We didn't, however,  spend too much time walking with other people.  We had our pace (slow and slower) and there is no sense of obligation to walk together even if you've become fast friends.  Our conversations happened more over meals, in the towns during rest times.  Everyone respects the need for alone time.  Some folks choose to do a silent Camino; others walk with friends, chatting.  I would say that there is no expectation at all to be sociable and talkative.  That's the terrific part.   

What about music?
I expect there is impromptu music making in the albuergues.  Since we walked mostly through the countryside, we didn't see or hear about music events.  We did have an opportunity to hear Gregorian chants in a church in O'Ceibreiro.  I expect if we'd stayed longer in Burgos or Leon, we would have had an opportunity to find music venues.   I did think it would have been fun to sing along the path but if I had done that, it definitely would have disturbed the peace!

Do you want to come home or keep on moving?

Oh yes. Home home home . Living out of a backpack , eating out , traveling and staying in different hotels: done!!

But I'd love to do another Camino. 

What's it all about? 

Love? Adventure? Luck? Still don't have the answer. 

May 27 Concurbion to Finisterre6.25 miles, 14,688 steps

We have arrived!!  Our hotel is lovely. Our backpacks are in the closet along with our boots and we feel finished!  

How strange and lovely it is to walk along the beach unencumbered!!  

Back at the hotel after accepting another Compostela for this walk, we're napping and honoring our bodies for their hard work: 375 miles !! 

And lest I forget, I must appreciate Craig for being my surplus water bearer. Every day, I fill my bladder pack to capacity and promptly run out.  CC hardly drinks his and generously stops to give me sips as we walk along.  He is powered by Coke Zero!  

Dinner at the hotel at 8:30. I'm hoping for  soup and a salad!  

Tomorrow brings a trip to the light house, some beach exploring and more Celebrations of Rest. 

Taking off la mochilla. 

Note the windmills in the background Of the second photo below.  This is a typical Galician grain storage structure. 

And do note the snail on the Camino sign. We couldn't let that go!

The Finesterre Camino has a different feel from the Camino de Santiago. It's much less traveled so there's not that sense of cameraderie so prevalent on the Santiago walk. There are long stretches without towns or rest stops. It doesn't have that aura of reverence or spirituality if you will. Yet it is exquisite and speaks silently and the notion of walking to the sea brings a sense of completion, especially since we weren't on a traditional Catholic pilgrimage that would bring enhanced significance to the arrival in Santiago to attend the mass.  

Anyway, we're feeling joyful and glad of it. 

This sopa de verduras is so delicious. A cream vegetable soup ( no dairy ) with onions, carrots, beans, Brussels sprouts, pumpkin.  The other typical Gallician soup, caldo de Gallega is equally fantastic.  It uses a special green. Photo follows.  Desserts speak for themselves.  

May 26. A Picota to Corcubion 15.36 miles,37,048 steps

Oh what a day it is!! Right now we're sitting in the lounge of our hotel that faces the sea.  We have reached the Atlantic Ocean and it's even in the right place for us Westerners, even if it's the wrong ocean.  We're having beer and Galician wine and the tapas keep coming! First chorizo and now some roasted small peppers.  Dinner will be soon. Spanish people eat late so by 9:00 we'll be on the early side. 

We have a gorgeous hotel with a patio that opens onto the bay. Tomorrow will be an easy day to Finesterre. 

Of course, that's what we said about today and it was a giant cojone challenge  if you catch my drift. 

 

We climbed alot and then made a major descent of about 600 meters over cobble stones and loose rocks to this lovely seaside town. 

We're approaching the end of the world as it was thought of before the Americas were invaded by Columbus and his cronies. 

Dinner, starting at 9 was delicious. I had some shells that are the ones that symbolize the Camino, and Craig had yet more delicious pork. Dessert speaks for itself. 

Galicia is easy to fall in love with.   For now, enjoy the photos, even if they came in a strange order. 

This update of Blogger is supposed to allow photos to be placed but it seems rather random. 

May 25. Negeira to A Picota 11 miles 15,710 steps

Knee problem solved- just don't squat with pack still on!!!! 

Walk through Galicia- my oh my! 

Galician language very close to Portuguese

New town: Picola- called and he picked us up.  Off the Camino. 75 yrs old. He's 30: second generation 

Just notes- no wifi . More to come as we arrive at the end of the world- fin del mundo:)

May 24 Santiago to Negreira 15.5 miles, 36,343 steps

Back  on the road again.  These boots are still made for walking though my knee wasn't too thrilled. I just get my feet all cushy and happy and now my knee. Oh well. Nothing a little Ibuprofen cream won't cure.  

We had a gorgeous breakfast this morning at the upscale version of the hotel we'd been staying at because they didn't have a room for us there for the last night.  Same price, about half of what this one cost.  The owners of both are exceptional proprietors and the experience of staying here is so so nice.  It's made lazy pilgrims out of us!! It's worth it to cone to Santiago just to stay with them!!

We'll return here next Wednesday for one night by bus from Finisterre before we leave for Madrid.  

So this was a good choice. Today's walk was picturesque, sunny, slight breeze, well marked Camino with fewer peregrinos, 4 mile straight uphill notwithstanding!!   Talked with a woman from Zimbabwe who now lives in London because it's too violent and dangerous. 

Craig had a joyful time after he caffeined up and listened to "Craig's happy tunes" playlist to ease the climb. Drats! My phone was out of battery or I would have had a great video of the peregrino contento dancing down the lane backpack and all!

Speaking of Craig, I'm still puzzled as to why he is AlWAYS ready with backpack on before me.  

And I never knew he could whistle so well - after all these years. 

So we have a lighthearted feeling. Perhaps because our sins were absolved at the Santiago mass?  Perhaps it's the abundant sunshine? We have a lovely ease between us. Those edges that sometimes come with long time relationships have softened. We're making decisions easily.  Bringing it on home!!!

Questions? Feel free to ask.  

May 23 Santiago

A day of wandering.  Gardens, market, tour of the cathedral, bumping into Camino friends, making plans.

A change of heart has turned us towards the ocean. Tomorrow we leave for the Camino de Finesterre - - a 4-5 day walk from Santiago to the Fin del Mundo.  More about that as we walk.  

So we're canceling the plans to go back to Pamplona and walking from here!!

So great to take time to make the right decision!