May 29 Finesterre to Santiago by bus

We're back home in Santiago at Hotel Adair, same room.  Stay tuned for what's next! 

May 28 Finesterre to the lighthouse. 8.4 miles 19, 716 steps

Oh such a day!  Buffet breakfast at our hotel followed by a pack less walk through town to then lighthouse.  What a difference no pack is!  My toes were dancing around and CC could hardly keep up with me!  The pics will speak for the views as well as for the lunch we had on the way back. 

 The rest of this day is being spent napping, writing, talking, planning.

Right now I'm sitting in the lounge area having a glass of wine and so e type of seafood enchilada type tapa that the server just brought to me.  That's the tradition here.  The tapas arrive without charge during the early evening hours.

Our bodies know that they can rest now and they are responding well.  

Today we met the couple from Ireland who we first met in Negreira.  The Yukon couple arrived yesterday.  We'd met them in Santiago.

Otherwise it's just the two of us.  This last part has been for us.  Every so often, we have private renewals of our vows.  O e took place a few years ago in the Virgin Islands.  Some of you know that.  We had another private moment in the church in Santiago during the Pilgrim Mass.  No big hoopla; just a simple, "let's make this a renew our vows moment."  

What has happened on this trip is that the edges have smoothed and because so many of the daily pressures and worries and hurries have receded, we can take the time to notice the negative habits that can sometimes overwhelm a long term relationship.  We are fortunate, so fortunate that we can talk with each other, thus bringing in more laughter and ease.  

Craig's off walking on the beach now undoubtedly coming back with more treasures to add.  

A very light dinner later tonight will end this perfect day.  

This was part of breakfast . 

May 27 Finisterre

Rainy day at the ocean.  Off to see the lighthouse at the end of the world. 

But first :

Reflection Q and A

Several friends have asked us questions about this experience.  They have provided us with a good opportunity to codify our time.  Travel always leaves impressions that we will share, keeping in mind however, that we can't know the nuances of other lives and that we make every effort not to generalize.

Now for the take home quiz? 

What have you enjoyed the most?   

There is no one thing. The walking, the companionship with Craig, the solitary time, meeting other peregrinos, meeting local people, the scenery, the culture, the history, the spirit, even the weather, the sense of humble empowerment. Don't want to separate it. 

Did you take the "right"  things?  

Yes! Absolutely. Once we sent the 3 kilos onto Santiago, our packs were manageable.  The revised packing list has it all.  I would change my color combo and have a black raincoat and black and maroon or camel combo outfits. I didn't like the blue:)

What do you miss most?   

The Grands. Our Peeps.  I loved being able to stay in touch via text, email, Facebook, and Skype. 

Are the people you meet  mostly friendly?  

Totally friendly. Can't think of a negative incident at all.  No animosity towards Americans.  In fact, when locals found out we weren't German or Scandinavian or from GB, they were delighted!! 

What are some of the reasons that people seem to take this walk that you have heard?  

To have time away from the rigors of life. To reflect. To walk in the footsteps. To take time to make changes in life like work or retirement. Because walking is a way of life. Many people return year after year or choose a different Camino to walk. 

What seems to be the most difficult part?

For me, carrying the backpack though I got used to it and even forgot to take it off when I could have. Jade and I bonded well. For Craig, the bus ride back from Finesterre was hell- no air, windy roads....

What are the public transpotation systems like?

Excellent.  The trains are clean, fast, and on schedule. Same with busses except for the air quality on the Finesterre to Santiago one. OPorto has an excellent Metro. We roamed the city on one ticket. Everyone uses them; a car would be expensive and a big hassle. Check out this photo of the Madrid train station where we rode a train for 20 minutes to get to Toledo. 

Piqued my interest . . . You are ready to resume life with reservations? 

Yes, very ready.  The last video Sonya sent of Hazel and the photos of Connor and Natalie that Nicole sent tugged at heart. The   reservations come because I don't want to lose the peace and groundedness that the Camino offers.  I like walking and walking.  I have vowed not to engage in the multi-tasking nonsense.  I'm looking forward to reading a book. Neither of us have done that. We spent our downtime writing, talking with others, tending to our bodily needs like eating and sleeping, planning the next day's route, reading and learning about the region we were in. 

Do you find people you have met in villages (those that live there, not traveling thru) are not angry like
we are in America? Even tho they may not have 'as much' do they really 'have more'?

I don't know this answer. We were in a very rural, traditional agrarian part of Spain.  With my limited language skills I don't feel informed.  People were very friendly. People also told us over and over that "there is no trabajo".  Are we so angry? 

Could you live in Europe for even half a year? 

I have and I could. I'd need a purpose. I wouldn't leave my family; they'd have to come with. 

So, what was the social scene like? It seemed like you talked/walked with lots of people. Was there a kind of expectation of being sociable and talkative? 
Yes, we did talk with many people.  We didn't, however,  spend too much time walking with other people.  We had our pace (slow and slower) and there is no sense of obligation to walk together even if you've become fast friends.  Our conversations happened more over meals, in the towns during rest times.  Everyone respects the need for alone time.  Some folks choose to do a silent Camino; others walk with friends, chatting.  I would say that there is no expectation at all to be sociable and talkative.  That's the terrific part.   

What about music?
I expect there is impromptu music making in the albuergues.  Since we walked mostly through the countryside, we didn't see or hear about music events.  We did have an opportunity to hear Gregorian chants in a church in O'Ceibreiro.  I expect if we'd stayed longer in Burgos or Leon, we would have had an opportunity to find music venues.   I did think it would have been fun to sing along the path but if I had done that, it definitely would have disturbed the peace!

Do you want to come home or keep on moving?

Oh yes. Home home home . Living out of a backpack , eating out , traveling and staying in different hotels: done!!

But I'd love to do another Camino. 

What's it all about? 

Love? Adventure? Luck? Still don't have the answer. 

May 27 Concurbion to Finisterre6.25 miles, 14,688 steps

We have arrived!!  Our hotel is lovely. Our backpacks are in the closet along with our boots and we feel finished!  

How strange and lovely it is to walk along the beach unencumbered!!  

Back at the hotel after accepting another Compostela for this walk, we're napping and honoring our bodies for their hard work: 375 miles !! 

And lest I forget, I must appreciate Craig for being my surplus water bearer. Every day, I fill my bladder pack to capacity and promptly run out.  CC hardly drinks his and generously stops to give me sips as we walk along.  He is powered by Coke Zero!  

Dinner at the hotel at 8:30. I'm hoping for  soup and a salad!  

Tomorrow brings a trip to the light house, some beach exploring and more Celebrations of Rest. 

Taking off la mochilla. 

Note the windmills in the background Of the second photo below.  This is a typical Galician grain storage structure. 

And do note the snail on the Camino sign. We couldn't let that go!

The Finesterre Camino has a different feel from the Camino de Santiago. It's much less traveled so there's not that sense of cameraderie so prevalent on the Santiago walk. There are long stretches without towns or rest stops. It doesn't have that aura of reverence or spirituality if you will. Yet it is exquisite and speaks silently and the notion of walking to the sea brings a sense of completion, especially since we weren't on a traditional Catholic pilgrimage that would bring enhanced significance to the arrival in Santiago to attend the mass.  

Anyway, we're feeling joyful and glad of it. 

This sopa de verduras is so delicious. A cream vegetable soup ( no dairy ) with onions, carrots, beans, Brussels sprouts, pumpkin.  The other typical Gallician soup, caldo de Gallega is equally fantastic.  It uses a special green. Photo follows.  Desserts speak for themselves.  

May 26. A Picota to Corcubion 15.36 miles,37,048 steps

Oh what a day it is!! Right now we're sitting in the lounge of our hotel that faces the sea.  We have reached the Atlantic Ocean and it's even in the right place for us Westerners, even if it's the wrong ocean.  We're having beer and Galician wine and the tapas keep coming! First chorizo and now some roasted small peppers.  Dinner will be soon. Spanish people eat late so by 9:00 we'll be on the early side. 

We have a gorgeous hotel with a patio that opens onto the bay. Tomorrow will be an easy day to Finesterre. 

Of course, that's what we said about today and it was a giant cojone challenge  if you catch my drift. 

 

We climbed alot and then made a major descent of about 600 meters over cobble stones and loose rocks to this lovely seaside town. 

We're approaching the end of the world as it was thought of before the Americas were invaded by Columbus and his cronies. 

Dinner, starting at 9 was delicious. I had some shells that are the ones that symbolize the Camino, and Craig had yet more delicious pork. Dessert speaks for itself. 

Galicia is easy to fall in love with.   For now, enjoy the photos, even if they came in a strange order. 

This update of Blogger is supposed to allow photos to be placed but it seems rather random. 

May 25. Negeira to A Picota 11 miles 15,710 steps

Knee problem solved- just don't squat with pack still on!!!! 

Walk through Galicia- my oh my! 

Galician language very close to Portuguese

New town: Picola- called and he picked us up.  Off the Camino. 75 yrs old. He's 30: second generation 

Just notes- no wifi . More to come as we arrive at the end of the world- fin del mundo:)